Highland / Food & coffee
Where the bean was born

Eaten with the
right hand.

Sour fermented flatbread, slow-stewed sauces, an afternoon coffee ceremony in three rounds. Eat from a shared platter; tear with the right hand only.

The national dish is injera be wat — a wide, sour fermented flatbread made from teff, served on a metal tray with five or six stews ladled directly onto it. You tear pieces from the edge of the injera, pinch up the wat, and eat. There are no plates, no knives, no forks. Strangers share the same tray.

Tef, the grain it's made from, is endemic to Ethiopia. The seeds are the smallest of any cereal in the world; you would need a hundred of them to weigh as much as a single wheat grain.

Dishes worth ordering.

◆ DORO WAT
◆ The national dish

Doro Wat

Slow-cooked chicken in berbere and onion paste, with a hard-boiled egg. Served at every Easter, every wedding.

◆ KITFO
◆ Gurage cuisine

Kitfo

Hand-minced raw beef warmed with niter kibbeh (spiced butter) and mitmita chili. Order it leb-leb (lightly seared) if uncertain.

◆ SHIRO
◆ Fasting day staple

Shiro

Ground chickpea stewed slowly with garlic and berbere. Vegan, hot, perfect with injera. The default lunch on a Wednesday or Friday.

◆ TIBS
◆ Roadside & bunna bet

Tibs

Cubes of beef or lamb sautéed with rosemary, onion, and chili. Often served on a small clay brazier kept hot at the table.

◆ BEYAYNETU · 6 WATS
◆ Fasting platter

Beyaynetu

"A little of every" — a tasting platter of six or seven vegetable wats: shiro, misir, kik, gomen, atkilt. The best vegan food in Africa.

◆ TEJ · BERELE
◆ Drink with it

Tej

Honey wine, served in a round flask called a berele. Sweet, deceptive — strong. The traditional drink of feasts.

◆ The Coffee Ceremony

Three rounds,
three hours.

Green beans are washed, roasted in a long-handled pan over coals, ground in a wooden mortar, and brewed in a clay jebena. Frankincense smoulders. Popcorn is passed. Each round is named, and refusing the third is the only real rudeness.

Abol
first round · the strongest
Tona
second round · for thinking
Baraka
third round · for blessing

Coffee was first noticed, the legend says, by a ninth-century goatherd named Kaldi in Kaffa, when his goats danced after eating the red cherries of a bush. He brought some to the local monastery; the monks roasted them, brewed them, stayed up all night.

Coffee, region by region.

◆ Sidamo · Yirgacheffe

Yirgacheffe

Floral, jasmine, lemon. The bean that defined "third-wave" coffee.

◆ Sidamo

Sidamo

Wine-bright, blueberry on the natural process. Spicier than Yirga.

◆ Oromia

Harar

Dry-processed, intensely fruity, almost mocha. Grown around the walled city.

◆ Kaffa & Jimma

Limu & Djimmah

Forest coffee, balanced and chocolatey. The wild birthplace of the bean.