The country is the size of France, Spain, and Germany combined. Pick two or three regions; do not try to do it all in two weeks.
A sketched orientation map. Pin a region to scroll to its card. The northern circuit links castles, the southern Rift links peoples.
2,355m. The diplomatic capital of Africa. Home base for almost every itinerary — Mercato, Holy Trinity, the National Museum's Lucy, jazz at Fendika.
Imperial capital 1636–1855. Stone castles of Fasil Ghebbi, the angel-ceiling of Debre Berhan Selassie. Where to be for Timkat.
Eleven monolithic rock-hewn churches, still in daily use. Arrive for Genna (Ethiopian Christmas) if you can.
Capital of an empire that once minted gold. Royal stelae, Mary of Zion, the Chapel of the Tablet, royal tombs of Kaleb.
More than 120 churches carved into vertical sandstone cliffs. Some require unroped scrambles. The Gheralta range is the heart of it.
Source of the Blue Nile. Thirty-seven island monasteries, several still housing illuminated Geʽez manuscripts.
UNESCO national park. Trekking among gelada baboons, Walia ibex, the Roof of Africa at 4,550m on Ras Dashen.
A second highland park, less trafficked. Endemic Ethiopian wolves on the Sanetti Plateau, Africa's largest stand of giant heather.
125m below sea level. The lowest, hottest, strangest place on earth. Sulphur springs at Dallol, salt caravans, an open lava lake at Erta Ale.
Walled, Islamic, sixteenth-century. Eighty-two mosques inside one square mile. Hyena feeders gather at the city gates at dusk.
Sixteen distinct peoples — Hamar, Mursi, Karo, Dassanech. A different Ethiopia. Travel with a respected guide; ask before photographing.
The cradle of coffee. Wild forests where the bean still grows. Pilgrim country for serious roasters.